LYCOMING CAMSHAFT LUBRICATION...
Subject: Ney Nozzles
I'm in the middle of overhauling my Lyc 180 and considering installing Ney nozzles to lube the cam lobes & tappets. Any thoughts or advice on this mod?

Dick,
Nice to hear from you. I have no first hand knowledge of the Ney nozzles, but having seen premature cam wear on Lycoming engines, I can't help but think they must be a good deal. As you know, the cam is above the crankshaft on a Lycoming, so it sometimes starts dry, and never does get all the splash lubrication a Continental cam gets. The O-235 in the Cessna 152 and Piper Tomahawk is a nearly bullet-proof engine, which has been known to go 3000 hours. A friend has one which was made in the early '80's, as a privately owned airplane it doesn't get the hours put on it like a flight school. His engine last year, with 1500 hours, was down on power. It took no oil and otherwise ran well. A check, with the valve covers off, revealed a couple of valves which were barely opening, the result of a worn camshaft and cam followers. Lycoming sells an oil additive, LW-_____ (fancy version of STP) which prevents oil runoff from the cam when it sits for awhile. It is marketed primarily for the "H" engines. I have a friend who uses it in an "H" engine with over 1500 hours, which runs like new. It might be cheaper than the nozzles!  --  Jim

LOTS OF THINGS CAN CAUSE HIGH OIL TEMPS...
Subj: Hot Oil
Dear Jim: I am back for more help. I have a 0-360 with oil cooler and the oil temp is running (about 5 degrees below redline). The cylinder head temp are OK and the oil pressure is OK. The first thing I did was check the oil temperature bypass valve and temp probe and they seem to work OK. Then I replaced the oil cooler. My oil still runs hot. Also the outside temp has been very hot (in the 100s) on the ground. My plane doesn't have an oil filter, will adding oil filter with the added qt of oil help? Can you give me any more suggestions to lower oil temp?

JW,
Now I forget, is that an O-360 Lyc? What "N" number airplane and what cowl etc. is installed? Actually, with the temp. over 100, I guess any oil temperature under red line is OK! Give me a few more details, but a quick way to lower oil temp is to open the cowl flap a little. -- Jim


O-360 QUESTION...
I am going to have a pre-buy tomorrow in Lancaster TX. This one has a O-360 with 1260 hrs SMOH. I have no experience with these engines. I have heard stories of many, many hours between overhauls. I know you know nothing about the particular engine, but was wondering what your general experience with these engines is. How long do they go? Do they generally require a top before major? etc. John Cross

John,
I presume that is a Lycoming O-360. This is one of the most "bulletproof" engines available and commonly goes 2000 hours or more between overhauls. Seldom will they require a top before overhaul. -- Jim


MYSTERIOUS VIBRATION FOUND WITH DEDICATED TROUBLESHOOTING...
Engine (O-360) getting rougher for some time. Flight a month ago, really vibrating, returned to field. Decowl, check prop alignment etc. -- recowl and testfly -- still sick. Send oil for spectroanalysis - "normal". Drain oil and check magnet (my innovation) in oil pan strainer - clean. Check all valve springs and tensions - fine. Replace oil and run compression check -- all between 75 and 80. New plugs less than 20 hours ago. Remove and examine fuel filter -- slight residue from recent fuel selector rebuild, otherwise very clean. Pull plug at bottom of carburetor bowl and catch outflow -- bingo!! -- out comes some black residue and a tiny (1/8"+ o/d) ferrous metal circle missing about 1/4 of its circumf. Carburetor (MA 4-5) removed and sent to shop. When opened, found pump idler lever & bushing assembly (man. item #74, p/n155-568 completely disassembled, no cotter key. The tiny 3/4 circle was the top of the cotter key which, apparently, had held it together. it was far smaller than the size key mandated for the installation. Complete examination revealed NO trace of the legs to the cotter key in the carburetor.

Obviously I'd been flyin with the O360 for about 20 years with the pump idler lever held together by a key that was far smaller than the one which should have been in it, and it finally just wore out. No evidence of the two legs could be turned up anywhere in the carb. Anyhow, it was reassembled with the proper size cotter key and the whole machine put back together. I did taxi it around the long "T" hanger building minus the cowling and did some high speed taxis and power jams on the grass taxiway. Damn, that engine sounds good for the first time in a long, long time. Not only that, it started a lot smoother. To my knowledge the small pin had to be installed before I bought the engine from a retired airline captain in Miami who had it in his living room as a standby for his Lake amphib, then went to a 200hp powerplant. Let you know how it is in the air.

Finally, after working on cowling and camlocks most of the day, got in the air just as the sun was dropping into the Gulf. The old Lyc sounds like it was built by Caterpillar.... again, finally!! Feel free to share if you think it will help, but I'm convinced it is an isolated case. My consensence from all the evidence is that someone before I got the engine was into the carb and when the cotter key was found to be almost impossible to install, went for the much smaller one. Over the years the tiny key finally wore out - or through. It is the semicircular crest of that key that flushed out when I drained the float bowl and pinpointed the area of agony. Think I told you the Lyc came off one of those 5-pass Beech twins (really hot) and was owned by a retired airline Capt. who had it in his living room as a spare for his Lake amphib. -- Jim


180HP LYCOMING PROBLEMS...
Subject: 180 Lyc power loss
I have a Glasair I FT I built that has a 180 hp Lycoming IO360 B1E with a fixed pitched 68 x 80 wood prop and a Light Speed Ignition replacing one mag.. The engine has 900 hours on the second major, each done at 2000 hours. It seemed healthy at first turning 2400 rpm on initial take off run but after 100 hours or so it would, without warning, be down on power noticeable by the loss of about 50 rpm on takeoff run and climbout however It continued to run smoothly. This would continue for several weeks then without warning full power of 2400 rpm would return again. I checked all the usual possibilities, air and fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, mag and ignition timing, injectors, oil analysis for metal that might indicate cam wear and talked with Terry Bell, a Bendix injection specialist. Plugs seemed to help some but did not solve the problem. The problem continued with no moments of full power the last several months. I measured cam lift by putting a dial indicator directly on the push rods and found all intake lifts to be close to .320 in. and all exhaust to be close to .350 in. Kevin at Bolduc Aviation said this was normal. Compression was a reasonable 70/80. In desperation I finally pulled the #1 jug because the EGT was down 150 degrees and this would enable me to look at three cam lobes and lifters and check the condition of the valves. The cam and lifters looked good but Bolduc had to replace the exhaust valve and grind both seats. The valve springs were a little weak. Before I button it up, do you have any advice? Dave

Dave
I would recommend you replace all the valve springs and the hydraulic units in the lifters. You cannot change the lifter bodies without splitting the case but the hydraulic units can be removed with a hook made out of a piece of safety wire. -- Jim

Jim
The #1 intake lifter had practically no oil in it so It is very possible the valve was not openning fully which would explain the power loss. In sum, all valve springs and tappet plungers were replaced and full power was restored. I gained back the 2400 rpm and now get 2420-2440 rpm before liftoff so it can be reported I conservatively gained 60 rpm on takeoff and climbout which I'm guessing should translate to around 8 hp.I appreciate your guidance. Dave